3-7 February - Orientation Week

On Monday morning, the three Axford fellows (I’m one) met with the Fulbright scholars and students at the Fulbright offices where we began our week-long orientation with the executive director Mele Wendt, programme leader; Stefanie Joe, and others. They did an amazing job of lining up the week with former Fulbrighters who are experts in the geology, biology, sociology, politics, and history of Aoteroa (Maori for New Zealand).

We began with an introduction to Maori culture and language. We learned about the issues of the Treaty of Waitangi and the ongoing issues due to translation and cultural understandings from the general editor of Te Ara, the Encyclopedia of New Zealand. Lord and Lady Reedy explained the rituals we would encounter when we traveled to the Waiwhetu Marae (marae are sacred meeting houses of the iwi – tribes of Maori). We learned greetings in Maori and the protocol and significance of touching noses in greeting.

At 3pm, we traveled to Waiwhetu Marae and experienced the welcoming protocol. The Maori at this marea were so welcoming, and they certainly kept us filled with food, tea, and coffee! After dinner, we were treated to a song and dance presentation by their marae group that has won honors and will compete for top national honors in 2015. We slept on mattresses on the floor of the meetinghouse, under beautiful carvings and symbols of Maori spirituality. In the morning, we heard from an American former Fulbright scholar who teaches at Victoria University about the peopling of NZ. Given the geographical evolution of NZ, it is a very young country, in terms of both land and people. We also did a very moving exercise with the Maori leaders of the marea about how it feels to lose your land and tonga (precious possessions).

 I was engaged by the Maori love for the earth, and saddened by the history so similar to that of American Indians and Aborigines. I was also fascinated by the similarity I found between Maori and Celtic symbolism in art, with the spirals and knots.

We learned that the marea is built to symbolize a body. On the outside are structures to represent arms and legs and the head; the inside has a womb and a spine with ribs.

The young Fulbright students are wonderful to talk to. It is energizing to meet young people with such a sense of purpose and care about the world and its people. On our way back from the marae, I sat with a student who is engaged in conciliatory juvenile justice. So important!

My biggest frustration has been our attempts to get an internet connection at our apartment. We keep taking the brunt of Telcom's mistakes, to the point that they won't get here to set up for another 10 days. Other than that. I haven't had problems dealing with minor inconveniences and really love being here. I am saddened by NZ's policy on cutting off older working people from migrating here. My kids could, no problem. While I understand the state not wanting older people migrating to live off of their excellent social services, I do wish they would give opportunities to older working people who could offer important contributions. Maybe there are ways...

As I have repeatedly said, I would make a great ex-pat. I do long to live in a more progressive, liberal country with strong gun control, anti-nuke policies, and policies more devoted to peace than war; one that is less racist, less anti-LGBT, and more collaborative than combative. New Zealand is no utopia. No place is. But it is more comfortable to me without the superiority complex held by the US. In my role as an Ian Axford fellow, I need to be a positive ambassador for the US, and, of course, I can do that. Aside form the politics, there is so much to love about the US. It is geographically beautiful, and its people are diverse. Most people care about helping one another. This will not be a problem.ß

The past several days have been filled with beautiful weather and brilliant blue skies. Today is a true "windy Welly" day with gusty cool winds, but a beautiful clear sky.

At tomorrow's orientation, we will explore "the other side" -- Parliament and and "Crown."

NOTE: No more photo uploads til 15 Feb or so, as we are still not connected on a plan, and “hot spot” fill-ups are pricey!

Wednesday was a day about politics. We toured Parliament with a terrific and funny guide. We learned the top three budget concerns of NZ: 1, at 23%, is social services; 2, at 13.5%, is health; and 3, at 12.5%, is education. Compare that to the US, where 1 is at 60%, military. NZ’s priorities all receive single digit percentages in the US. Also, because of their system, they have no choice but to form coalition governments. Thus, they cannot get into these ridiculous extreme positions witnessed in the US. We also learned a great deal about environmental concerns from Green Party MP, Kennedy Graham.

Thursday was a national holiday, Treaty of Waitangi Day. Dick and I took it kind of easy. In the evening, we attended a dinner party by Helen Hughes, a former Fulbrighter. Her friend Dame Margaret, who lives a short walk from us, provided transportation. Both her brother and husband worked with Ian Axford (for which my fellowship is named), so it was quite interesting to talk to her. Helen lives in Seatoun and has an amazing view of the harbor.

Friday concentrated on flora and fauna of NZ. Again, so much has depended on the ancient continent of Godwana, which included NZ, Pacific Islands, Australia, part of South America, Antarctica, and South Africa. The ways in which pieces broke off, and how, and where they drifted, and when – all determined flora, fauna – and why there were no mammals in NZ aside from a couple bat species and no snakes, discovery (first Polynesians, then Europeans).  In the afternoon we visited preserved bush land in a Wellington suburb. My group hiked to an 800-year old Puka tree.

We left to experience partying people in costume, celebrating the international “sevens” rubgy tournament. The rules are very different from regular rugby. It is largely an opportunity for people to go crazy and drink too much. Saturday Dick and I learned to use public transport to get out to Petone, which has some great discount stores we used to complete our housewares needs. Today (Sunday), I have been enjoying the Olympics, and cleaning the place before the week to come (when I will begin my work with Immigration NZ). Dick has left to get some things in town, and after I post this, I will work to complete an oil painting!